Perfume was first produced in large quantities in Egypt's eighteenth dynasty (Foster, 1966:11).
The industry was completely in the hands of priests, who kept workshops behind their temples
(Donato and Seefried, 1980:9). Perfumes were an essential part of life in antiquity as reflected
though archaeological evidence (Bier et al., 1994:4). Perfumes were acknowledged to have
some sort of power in purification from death or disease and to cleanse the impure (Donato and
Seefried, 1980:9). Perfumes were so essential to the lives of the ancients that they were buried
with the dead for use in the afterlife. Etruscan tombs were filled with "perfume bottles, hollow
ear ring sand bracelets with small containers attached" (Donato and Seefried, 1980:10). The
Egyptian mummies were embalmed through a lengthy process using aromatic herbs and oils.
The first recorded glass production and consequently the first technique similarly originated in
Egypt (Foster, 1966:11). Scents obviously required a container and in Corinth, Greece and
Rome, figural bottles were popular to hold scents. Common icons included mythical creatures
(gorgons, sirens, sphinx and komasts) as well as animals (hares, birds) (Biers et al, 1994:1).
Containers reflect the value of the contents. Throughout history, the selection of appropriate
scent bottles has been documented recently in annecdotal information relating to the manufacture
of precious goods (goldsmiths, porcelain, glass etc.)
The church played an important part in keeping the glass industry alive. Priest guarded old glass
making knowledge and acted as the patrons of new and extensive applications of glass mosaics
and stained glass windows(Douglas and Frank, 1972:6). Priests were also integral in the history
of perfumes. In ancient days, the priests alone held the knowledge to make perfumes. These two
substances have an ancient relationship due to the liquid nature of perfumes and the threat of
evaporation.
Prefume was extemely difficult to produce requiring a large quantity of different ingredients to
produce a very small 'essence'. The difficulty of production resulted in scarcity and hence made
the substance even more valuable and expensive. In Greek society, perfume or odor was one of
the main symbols of beauty (Donato and Seefried, 1980:11). . Both Greek and Roman Society,
perfumess were highly valued as exemplified through the public baths. In Rome a part of the
public treasury was used to stock the public baths with perfumes so that all citizens of Rome had
a supply. The wealthier citizens could either purchase more expensive scents at the public bath
or could bring their own supply. Cleanliness was highly valued and scent was a manifestation of
cleanliness.
In European sites, particulary those of London and Paris, cleanliness was not valued to the same
degree. Bathing was rare, even among the nobility. The streets were dirtly and thought to carry
germs. Members of the upper class carried perfume soaked hankerchiefs or gloves to combat the
foul odours of the outside world. As in Egypt and Ancient Greece, perfumes were thought to
purify the air. The Black Plague was believed to spread throughout Europe, due to 'bad air'.
The populace combatted this with air, with perfumed masks or masks that contained fragrant
flowers.
.
Through trade, perfume and glass making techniques spread to the rest of the world. Glass was
similarly valued. It was buried with the dead and highly prized by Kings and courtisians. In the
twelfth century AD, the first guild of perfumeurs formed by statute in France, under the direction
of a Philipe Auguste (Foster, 1966:11). At this time the scent and container were sold separately
resulting in unions between perfumeurs and glass makers
Modern perfumes seldom contain the 'essential oils' of either animal or flower. Advances in
chemistry provided synthetic substitutions. From 1870 onwards chemists were searching for
synthetic chemicals to replace those naturally occurring (North, 1986:119). Synthetic scents
would decrease the cost and perhaps value of perfumes. French perfumers were wary of the new
synthetic scents primarily due the threat to the essential oil business (Genders, 1972:186). For
much of the twentieth century, the French perfumers have been regarded as producing excellent
perfumes. This image was threatened with the advent of synthetic perfumes. In addition, the
French feared that synthetic processes would corrupt the art of perfume making and the long held
prestige of the perfumer Gender, 1972:186). Synthetic perfumes have contributed to the rise of
commercially available perfumes for the mass market. They have allowed all economic areas of
society to possess scents (of various economic value) The advent of the synthetic coupled with
the automation of glass manufacturing has made perfume accessible to a wide range of the
population.
In Europe, the predominant commercial perfumers of the last century include: Luben, L.T. Puer,
Houbigant, Guerlain, Coty and Caron (North, 1986:119). Many perfume bottles were copied
until perfumers began to patent the containers. Lalique discovered a method to mass produce
scent bottles so that they still carried an aura of luxury and exclusiveness so that the a house maid
could own the same container as her mistress (Percy, 1977:93).
Literature pertaining to perfume history or scent history is limited to the ancient realm. Very few
sources reflect present day use or values. The list decreases further for commercially availble
products. It appears that the more common an object, the less likely it will be studied by modern
scholars.
1. Introduction *
2. Methodology *
3. Design & Ads *
4. Results-1968 *
5. Results-1974 *
6. Results-1985 *
7. Results-1994 *
8. Conclusion *
9. Bibliography *