Belk, Russel (1995). Collecting in a Consumer Society. Routledge, London.
A history of the rise of a consumer society. Belk focuses primarily on the reasons behind collections. A brief section on the rise of a consumer society provides information on sumptuary laws and rudimentary psychology of consumerism.

Bender, May (1975). Package Design and Social Change. AMACOM, New York.
A history of and the importance of industrial design is presented via a chronicle of the social changes of the twentieth century. The book is valuable as reference tool as it outlines the predominant packaging trends of each decade.

Biers, William R., Gerhardt, Klaus and Rebecca A Braniff. (1994). Lost Scents: Investigations of Corinthian "Plastic" Vases by Glass Chromatography -Mass Spectrometry. MASCA, University of Pennsylvania Musuem of Archaeology and Anthropology, Philadelphia.
Identification of the contents of corinthian perfume via chromatography and spectrometry. Symbolism and imagery in the scent containers is discussed including trends common at the time.

Brett, David. (1992). On Decoration.
The Ltterworth Press, Cambridge. (1992)
Brett focuses on household object decoration. Being British, he views these objects through the lens of connoisseurship.

Bowby, Rachael. (1993). Shopping with Freud.
Routledge, London and New York. (1993).
The author focuses on the depiciton of purchased objects in literature.

Cheskin, Louis (1957). How to Predict What People Buy. Liveright, New York.
The basic components of a package are the color, imagery and pattern, but the most important image is the brand identifying symbol. Studies are included to aid marketers with product or package design.

Cromption, Rosemary (1996). Consumption and class analysis. IN Edgell, Stephen, Kevin Hetherington and Alan Warde (ed). (1996). Consumption Matters. Blackwell Publishers, Cambridge,MA. (1996). P113-134.

Cubitt, Sean (1990). Innocence and Manipulation: Censorship, Consumerism and Freedom in 1980's Britian.
IN CONSUMPTION, IDENTITY AND STYLE., Routledge, New York. p102-118.
Censorshiplaws and ideas of public good are explored in terms of media and consumerism.

Craik, Jennifer. (1994). The face of fashion: Cultural studies in fashion.
Routledge, New York. (1994). P153-175.
Chapter 7: Cosmetic attributes: Techniques of makeup is quite relevant to the study of perfume bottles. It provides a concise overview of perfume history and focuses on the twentieth century print advertisements.

Dichter, Ernest (1981). The Package and the Consumer. IN HANDBOOK OF PACKAGE DESIGN RESEARCH. By Walter Stern (ed). John Wiley and Sons, New York. p 73-82.
Packaging as advertising, packaging as respect for the customer and are explored. The author explores the cultural ideas of packaging.

Donato, Guiseppe and Monique Seefried (1980). The Fragrant Past, Perfumes of Cleopatra and Julius Caesar. Istituto Poligrafico e Zecca dello Strato, Roma.
The authors chronicle a project they undertook at Emory University Musuem, wherein they attempted to duplicate the production of perfumes from the time of Julius Caesar and Cleopatra. A short history of perfume production is provided with cursory reference to scent contains. The importace of perfume is stressed as is the trade routes that linked the various civilizations. Perfume ingredients and ancient recipes are presented as is an account of the
attempted recreation.

Douglas, R.W. and Susan Frank (1972). A History of Glassmaking. G.T. Foulis and Co. Ltd., London.
A history of glassmaking including innovations in both design and manufacture. A thorough account of the effects of increasing technology on glass availability with a cursory account of the corresponding social factors.

Dyer, Gillian (1982) Advertising as communication.
Routledge, London and New York. (1982).
This work provides an overview of print advertising. It covers topics such as iconography, and rhetoric. The author focuses on perfume advertisements for many of her examples.

Ellis, Aytoun (1960). The Essence of Beauty. Secker and Warburg, London.
Both the use of perfume and the use of cosmetics are traced through history. The author includes tips on perfume and cosmetic purchase as well as application and appropriateness. This book is more than dated, but it does provide information on the history of perfume production including recipes. In addition, the text provides valuable information on the prevailing views of gender and feminity from a 1950s perspective.

Edgell, Stephen, Kevin Hetherington and Alan Warde (ed). (1996). Consumption Matters.
Blackwell Publishers, Cambridge,MA. (1996).
This book focuses on consumption theory including gift giving and class analysis.

Ewen, Stuart (1990). Marketing Dreams: The Political Elements of Style. IN CONSUMPTION, IDENTITY AND STYLE., Routledge, New York. p41-56.
A definition for style and the importance of 'having a style' are explored in terms of status, class and perceived image.

Firth, Simon (1990). Frankie Said: But What did they Mean? IN CONSUMPTION, IDENTITY AND STYLE., Routledge, New York. p 172-185.
The pop sensation Frankie Goes to Hollywood is explored in terms of advertising and the creation of a fad.

Flemming, E. McClung (1974). Artifact Study: A Proposed Model. IN WINTERTHUR PORTFOLIO 9. p159-73.
A material culture approach to artifact study.

Forty, Adrian (1987). Objects of Desire: Design and Society 1750-1980. Thames and Hudson, London.
Different aspects of design are explored through varied case studies. The author explains the rise of design concepts through the use of specific studies. Each study is self contained. The book lacks a unity and functions like a compendium or an account of conference proceedings.

Foster, Kate (1966). Scent Bottles. The Connoisseur and Michael Joseph, London.
A history of the scent bottle is outlined including rudimentary reference to bottle manufacture techniques. The book provides an excellent reference for the rise of bottle making and cooperation of bottlemakers and other merchants.

Gilborn, Craig (1982). Pop Pedagogy: Looking at the Coke Bottle. IN MATERIAL CULTURE STUDIES IN AMERICA. Thomas Schlereth (ed)., Nashville, The American Association of State and Local History. p 183-91.
Material culture approach to the study of popular culture.

Goldman, Robert (1992). Reading Ads Socially.
Routledge, London and New York. 1992.
A very important work in the study of advertisments. This book provides many examples specifically related to the perfume industry, including semiotics, iconography and frames.

Guss, Leonard (1967). Packaging is Marketing. AMA, Washington.
Issues of marketing, packaging and advertising are explored. The need for a unified marketing, product and package is stressed. Chapters are devoted to different issues in package design, consumer preference and psychology.

Haynes, E. Barrington (1943). Glass. Penguin Books, London.
A history of glass making. Stem ware is the focus of this book. The development and Europeanization of glass is presented.

Jackson, Stevi and Shaun Moores (ed). The politics of Domestic Consumption.
Prentice Hall, Toronto. (1995).
A compendium of domestic consumption issues. Particularly important given perfume bottles are by and large gender specific.

Jones, Jennifer (1996). Coquettes and Grisette's: Women Buying and Selling in Ancien Regieme Paris. IN THE SEX OF THINGS: GENDER AND CONSUMPTION IN HISTORICAL PERSPECTIVE by Victoria de Grazia with Ellen Furlongh, University of California Press.
Fashion, dress and elaborate design are used as indicators of the political climate of France both before and after the Revolution. The buying habits of upper class women and social control are prominent issues.

Lury, Celia (1996). Consumer Culture.
Polity Press, Cambridge. (1996).
Contains a chapter on gift giving. Most perfumes are given as gifts.

McCracken, Grant (1995). Big Hair. Viking Press, Toronto.
The symbolism and importance of hair as a transformative medium and medium of self expression is explored. The author devotes chapters to customer-hair dresser relations, greying, aging, color and transformation of self. This book addresses issues of cosmetics and image which can be transcended to consumerism.

Messaris, Paul. (1997). The role of images in advertising.
Sage Publications., London and New Delhi. (1997).
A good source of information about semiotics as specifically related to advertising.

North, Jacqueline Y Jones (1986). Perfume, Cologne and Scent Bottles. West Chester and Schiffer Publishing., Pennsylvania.
An excellent illustrated reference to bottle design divided in terms of date and medium.

O’Barr, William (1994) Culture and the ad: exploring otherness in the world of advertising.
Westview Press, San Francisco. (1994)
A source relating to analyze social ideology in advertisments.

O'Saughnessy, John (1987). Why People Buy. Oxford University Press, New York.
The author explores consumer motivation, advertising and packaging. Tips are included for sucessful marketing of products.

Percy, Christopher, Vane (1977). The Glass of Lalique. Charles Scribner's Sons, New York.
The founding and proliferation of Lalique glass is presented from a connoisseurship perspective. The value of Lalique glass as an object d'art and a status symbol permeates throught. Lalique is of interest because many French perfumes bottles were commissioned to Lalique due to the perceived high craftsmanship and the popularity of the glass in general.

Peiss, Kathy (1996). Making Up Making Over: Cosmetics, Cusumer Cultureand Women's Identity. IN THE SEX OF THINGS: GENDER AND CONSUMPTION IN HISTORICAL PERSPECTIVE by Victoria de Grazia with Ellen Furlongh, University of California Press.
Cosmetic design, imagery and adverising are explored. A short historyu of social views of beauty is provided in the context of the rise of cosmetics from the shun of society's 'good girls don't wear make up' present day 'everyone does and it is okay'.

Prown, Jules (1982). Mind in Matter: An introduction to Material Culture Theory and Method. IN WINTERTHUR PORTFOLIO 17, no 1. p1-19.
Theory of material culture.

Radway, Janice (1995). The act of reading the romance. IN Jackson, Stevi and Shaun Moores (ed). The politics of Domestic Consumption.
Prentice Hall, Toronto. (1995). P161-172.
Of significance because printed perfume advertisements often depict scenarios akin to those in romance novels.

Rappaport, Erika (1996). A Husband and His Wife's Dresses. IN THE SEX OF THINGS: GENDER AND CONSUMPTION IN HISTORICAL PERSPECTIVE by Victoria de Grazia with Ellen Furlongh, University of California Press.
Legal issues of liabilty are discussed. Property laws and legal ownershiupp of goods and the use of credit in nineteenth century England are explored.

Sagarin, Edward (1945). The Science and Art of Perfumery. McGraw-Hill, London.
A history of the perfume industry describing region specific perfumes.

Scalon, Jennifer. (1995). Inarticulate Longings: The Ladies Home Journal, Gender and the Promises of Consumer Culture.
Routledge, London and New York. (1995).
Not particularly relevant to the study of perfume bottles. It does provide some information on advertising at the beginning of the 20th century.

Selame, Elinor, Joe Selame and Greg S. Kolligian (1982). AMACOM, New York.
Packaging, consumer response and psychogy are explored through the use of case studies. The Selame's own a packaging design consulting firm and describe their various success stories. The book is of limited value with the exception to its references to the physical purpose of packaging.

Simmonds, Diana (1990). What's Next? Fashion, Foodies and the Illusion of Freedom. IN CONSUMPTION, IDENTITY AND STYLE., Routledge, New York. p121-138.
The author discusses the idea of female as fashionable and the correspondence of the use of colour in fashion with economic climate. The author identifies a new trend in aestheticizing food so that food becomes a work of art or a commodity to be purchased rather than a subsistence need.

Sutnar, Ladislav (1953). Package Design: The Force of Visual Selling. Arts Inc. New York.
The author divides packaging into four types. Two of these types are perfumes and cosmetics. Issues of giftgiving and aeshtetic value are given to packaging as well as the psychology of the purchaser.

Tomlinson, Alan (1990). Consumer Culture and the Aura of Commodity. IN CONSUMPTION, IDENTITY AND STYLE., Routledge, New York.
Consumer choice, packaging and symbolism are explored.

Wackerman, Lawrence (1981). How Package Design Contributes to Product Positioning. IN HANDBOOK OF PACKAGE DESIGN RESEARCH. By Walter Stern (ed). John Wiley and Sons, New York. p 238-243.
The author views the package as a visual indicator. The aesthetics and design of a package and product to target a specific audience are briefly explored.

Zimmerman, Phillip (1981). Workmanship as Evidence: A Model for Object Study. IN WINTERTHUR PORTFOLIO 16, no. 4. p283-307.
Differences and similarities of workmanship as a medium of comparison in material culture with a focus on furniture.

BOOKS OF LITTLE OR NO MATERIAL CULTURE OR HISTORICAL VALUE FOR THIS PROJECT

Israel, Lee (1985). Estee Lauder: Beyond the Magic. MacMillan, New York.
Unauthorized biography. Does not address cosmetics but the affluent lifestyle of the Lauders and their many "important" friends and clients.


Lewis, Alfred and Woodworth, Constance (1973). Miss Elizabeth Arden. W.H. Allen, London.
This book does not look at the development of the company, but the unhappy life of Elizabeth Arden.


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